"Domestic wheat is hard to handle," "The quality is inconsistent," "The gluten is weak." These are phrases often heard when discussing domestic wheat. But is this really the case?
Wheat as an Industrial Product
Modern baking prioritizes uniformity and reproducibility. Imported wheat (especially from the U.S. and Canada) is grown via large-scale agriculture and blended to standardize quality. This was a very rational choice for the era of mass production and mass consumption. However, if we evaluate domestic wheat by these standards, we inevitably reach the conclusion that it is "inferior."
Wheat is Alive
We propose a different perspective: Wheat is not an industrial product, but an agricultural crop. Domestic wheat has the following characteristics:
- It is affected by the local climate and soil.
- Each variety has a distinct personality.
- Its character changes depending on the harvest year.
- It can be used in a fresh state (due to short transport distances).
From the perspective of an industrial product, these traits represent "instability," but from the perspective of an agricultural crop, they represent "rich individuality."
Learning from Wine
This way of thinking is common sense in the world of wine. In wine making, the same grape variety yields a completely different taste depending on the region and the year. And that difference is considered its value.
"The 2020 Bordeaux had a lot of rain, resulting in a delicate taste." " The Pinot Noir from this vineyard has a strong mineral quality."
Why can't we speak in this way in the world of bread?
Dialogue with Wheat
Mastering domestic wheat requires a "dialogue."
- What is the character of this wheat?
- How much water will it absorb?
- How much should it be kneaded?
- How many hours should it ferment?
The wheat itself answers these questions. Bakers possess the skill to listen to that voice.
The French Case
In France, baking that utilizes "terroir" (the distinct character of the land) has become popular in recent years. An increasing number of bakeries are using only wheat from specific regions to bring out its personality to the fullest. This is a reaction against the era of uniformity and a movement to re-evaluate wheat as an agricultural crop. We should be able to do the same thing in Japan.
Rebuilding Relationships
Using domestic wheat is not simply a choice of raw materials. It carries the following meanings:
- Connection with producers - Relationships where you can see each other's faces.
- Revitalization of the local economy - Money circulating within the region.
- Food security - Independence from imports.
- Consideration for the environment - Short transport distances (reduction of food mileage).
In other words, it is a re-conceptualization of food not as "consumption" but as a "relationship."
A Culture for 100 Years Hence
What we aim for is a culture that will remain 100 years from now. Not bread as a uniform industrial product, but a rich bread culture that connects the land, the seasons, and the people. To achieve this, we need to re-evaluate the value of domestic wheat and create new standards.
Next time, we will report on our visit to a bakery that actually uses domestic wheat. What do you think about domestic wheat? We would love to hear your opinions.